3 Spectacular Cycling Routes on Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way
The quiet, country roads along the Wild Atlantic Way are perfect for those in search of the most beautiful places in Ireland. From the towering sea cliffs of Slieve League in the North, through the ancient bog-lands of the Céide Fields in the West and down to the craggy mountain passes of the MacGillycuddys Reeks in the South, Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way boasts some truly spectacular cycling routes. In a country where the land itself has and remains central to Irish identity, history and culture, taking the road less travelled is the best way to uncover the beating heart of life in the West of Ireland.
Routes
Killybegs-Glengesh Loop, County Donegal
The Ring of Beara, Co. Cork/Kerry
When to Go
In general, Ireland’s weather is relatively mild but undoubtedly the best time to experience Ireland by bike is from April through to October. May and September are your best bet for drier conditions, morning sunshine and quieter roads. The summer months of June, July and August have the advantage of warmer weather and longer evenings with daylight hours stretching until as late as 11pm, however in recent years these months have seen increased rainfall and more traffic on the roads.
The routes we have chosen are some of the best cycling routes Ireland has to offer. Ranging from avid routes with challenging climbs and twisting descents to gentler gradients with rolling hills, there are options for every level of cyclist. Instead of a continuous route that has you trying to cover huge distances or trying to pack a grueling itinerary into six days, these routes are dotted along the coastline in areas handpicked for their combination of stunning scenery and rich cultural heritage. That way, you can enjoy your days off the bike as much as much as your days on the bike as you visit some of the most beautiful places in Ireland.
Here’s our pick of three of the best cycling routes and destinations in Ireland:
The Killybegs-Glengesh Loop, County Donegal (70km)
The Killybegs to Glengesh loop is one of Ireland’s hidden gems—a rollercoaster ride of sharp climbs and twisting descents usually reserved for Donegal’s locals.
Starting out from the port town of Killybegs, the hulking sterns of brightly-coloured fishing trawlers, quickly give way to green hedgerows and a jaw-dropping view across the Atlantic Ocean. If you fancy a quick caffeine hit early en-route, check out Brew In Thru’s vintage coffee van near Teelin village. Standing taller than any sea cliffs in Europe, and far less crowded than their famous sister the Cliffs of Moher, the climb to the viewpoint at the top of Sliabh Liag Cliffs is well worth getting up and out of the saddle for.
After Sliabh Liag, the route skirts west along wide, open roads flanked by boggy fields of grass and heather. If you’re feeling adventurous, take a detour to the Silver Strand beach at Malin Beg. Undoubtedly, one of the most beautiful places in Ireland, it’s the perfect spot for a dip in the sea to cool off. When the sun shines here, you really wouldn’t believe this beach is in Ireland! Alternatively, you could drive back after your ride or the following day, as it’s only a 35-minute drive from Killybegs.
Far from the urban thrum, the only traffic you’ll meet on the middle section of this route is the odd hungry sheep that’s strayed from its field. The old cottages and isolated farms will transport you back in time, giving you a glimpse into the Ireland of old. You’ll notice the road signs with both the Irish name and English translation—a gentle reminder of the island’s history. The magic of the Ghaeltacht, one of Ireland’s few remaining Irish-speaking regions, can be found in the village of Glencolmcille, where you can visit the folk museum or get a cupán tae (cup of tea) at a local café, An Chistín. You might sense something different in the air here, something ancient and precious that is fighting to remain in the modern era.
The highlight of the route for avid cyclists is the Glengesh Pass. Translated as the “Glen of the Swans”, this section winds its way through the Donegal mountains and moorlands. Expect to have this narrow road almost all to yourself as you enjoy its exhilarating switchbacks and elevated views over the valley below.
The route then takes you back on the final stretch to the start point at Killybegs. Don’t miss out on the freshly caught fish and chips served at the little roadside van—Killybegs Seafood Shack. Sit on the harbour wall with your fish supper in your lap and enjoy your well-earned post-ride feed while you watch the fishing trawlers bring back the afternoon catch. Find accommodation in Killybegs, Glencolmcille, the Rusty Mackerel in Teelin or the quaint village of Ardara where you can enjoy a pint of Guinness at Nancy’s traditional Irish pub. Other off-the-bike activities include hiking the Pilgrims Path route up to Slieve League, visiting Assaranca Waterfall or strolling along Maghera Beach at low tide.
The Lough Gill Loop, Co.Sligo (40km)
Welcome to Co.Sligo, lauded by the famous Irish poet W.B. Yeat’s as “The Land of Heart’s Desire.”
This route starts from the renowned surf village of Strandhill. For those of you who need your pre-ride coffee and pastry, visit Shells Café overlooking the beach. A favourite of local cyclists, this loop route follows the wooded shores of Lough Gill. Wind though green tunnels of oak trees that suddenly give way to panoramic views of the lake and the ancient Ox Mountains sitting behind.
Make the most of the shorter 40km distance of this loop to explore some of Sligo’s historical sites. First up, you’ll want to make a stop at the impressive Parke’s Castle on the lough’s north-eastern shore. This fifteenth-century castle was once home to the lord of West Breifne and anti-crown resistance fighter, Sir Brian O’Rourke. Explore the now restored castle and bawn and learn about the fate of O’Rourke who was hung and quartered for treason for his part in sheltering survivors of the Spanish Armada that shipwrecked on the Sligo coast in 1588.
Another worthwhile stop around the half-way point is in the village of Dromahair— the 200-year old, family-run Stanford’s Village Inn and Tea Rooms. Whether it’s a pint of Guinness in the authentic pub at the front, or a slice of their amazing hummingbird cake and hot cup of tea in the café at the back, this is the perfect place to refuel and chat to the locals.
For the history buffs, take a quick detour from the route to explore the medieval Franciscan Friary of Creevlea Abbey. The Abbey was used up until the late seventeenth century when the Franciscans Friars were forced out by Oliver Cromwell and his army. Preserved as a National Monument, rest your bike against a low stone wall and check out the remains of the church, chapter house, cloister, bell-tower and the graveyard still in use by the local community.
If you’re looking for somewhere special to stay tonight, then look no further than the seventeenth-century Gothic Castle of Markree on the lough’s south-eastern shores. One of the largest privately-owned castles in Ireland, its grounds span an impressive 500-acres. Offering a secluded stay, with delicious food, wine and a golf-course for your recovery day, its old-world charm will transport you back in time. Alternatively, Sligo town, Strandhill and Rosses Point have various options for accommodation. Known for its lively music and local food scene, Sligo is a great spot to spend a long weekend.
The Ring of Beara, Co. Cork/Kerry (140km)
One of the most beautiful places in Ireland, the Beara Peninsula remains wild and relatively untouched by tourists.
You’ll start this route in the historic town of Kenmare, the ideal base to access the Beara Peninsula, Killarney National Park and the MacGillycuddys Reeks. You’ll ride this cross-county loop clockwise, passing through the picturesque villages of Ardgroom, Eyeries, Allihies and Glengariff before crossing back over the dramatic Caha mountain pass on your way back to Kenmare. To really do it justice, aim to spend several days here, either before or after your cycle, or by breaking it up into daily sections.
One of our first suggested stops is the nineteenth-century Derreen Gardens nestled in Kilmackillogue Harbour. Wander round the 60-acre maze of woodlands and get lost amongst giant ferns and sub-tropical plants from around the world that thrive in its remarkable micro-climate. It’s also a great place for coffee, cake or lunch at their little café!
A spectacular but little-visited gem on Beara is the Rabach’s Glen. Hop off your bike for a short detour by foot to an abandoned pre-Famine settlement with a mysterious and gruesome past. According to legend, two people, an English naval deserter and local woman both fell victim to another villager Cornerlius O’Sullivan Rabach in 1814. “The Rabach” evaded capture for over a year by hiding out in the caves located in the steep gully above the settlement. As you stand in the shadows of the steep mountains on either side, it’s hard not to feel like the landscape has many more stories to tell.
Next up, the narrow, unassuming road that leads out of the village of Ardgroom and inland towards the mountains hides one of Beara’s true hidden gems—Glenbeg Lough. Push yourself that extra kilometre to catch a glimpse of the dark waters reflecting the mountains either side and those brave enough will find it the perfect spot for a quick dip. You can choose to shorten your ride by cutting straight across the Peninsula from Eyeries to Castletownbere, but be warned you’ll miss out on a definite highlight—the picturesque village of Allihies with its multicoloured cottages and fascinating mining history. You can visit the copper mine museum or follow your eyes upwards to the remains of the chimneys jutting out of the mountain side and take a stroll along the sign-posted Miners Trail.
Continuing around the edge of the Peninsula, you’ll pass by one of the most unique and beautiful places in Ireland, Dzogchen Beara Buddhist Centre. Perched on the cliffs between Allihies and Castletownbere, it is home to Ireland’s only Buddhist Temple. Simply call by for some homemade coffees and cake with breath-taking views of the Ocean below or consider staying at one of their beautiful self-catering cottages and joining one of their daily meditation sessions.
On your way to Glengariff, consider a short but steep detour up to the viewpoint at the Healy Pass. A favourite of local cyclists, wind your way up the switchbacks for 7km at an average gradient of 5%. Accommodation is easily found in the villages dotted around the Peninsula, with the bigger towns of Castletownbere and Glengariff being the most popular. Other sites of interest include the megalithic Uragh Stone circle, a trip on the cable car out to Dursey Island, and the Sarah Walker Gallery in Castletownbere.
These routes will bring you to some of the most beautiful places in Ireland. Whether you choose to smash out a route in one day and spend the rest of your trip off the bike exploring, or take your time and cycle daily sections exploring as you go, discovering Ireland by bike will give you a truly immersive experience of the Irish landscape.
If you’re concerned about navigating the country roads or figuring out where to sleep and eat seems more like a chore than fun—then a guided tour with van support and local guides might be a better option. Trek Travel’s self-guided tours offer you carefully curated routes and accommodation to take away the stress of logistics, or their guided tours give you the benefit of en-route mechanical support and expert local guides. Private, custom trips are also available.
The Healy Pass
